Silk pla bed temperature reddit. The cold plate always needs glue if you want it to last.

Silk pla bed temperature reddit . Lower first build height. I print decorative stuff with PLA (including esun/sunlu "silk") at 190-195 because it offers best visual quality. As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the Simplify3D picture guide. B. 75mm. Also I raised the bed temperature for the first layer and the nozzle temp, made the first layer a little thicker (normal draft . In the filament settings on BambuStudio, you can change the "temperature of vitrification" so that it is at least the same temp or higher than what you have set for the build plate temp you're using. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I normally print PETG at 235℃, but I need to go higher for some brands. Not all silk PLA does that. Is the filiment already wet or is it my retraction settings? Temps 215 nozzle, 60 bed Retraction distance 0. de PLA silk Problem: I'm trying to print some vase mode things in shiny silk PLA, but after the first few layers it seems to stop extruding. 4 nozzle. 45mm after Silk filaments like higher temperatures than regular PLA or PLA+ I would try 220 before going lower. The temperature on the box says 215-230, but I printed a temperature tower and the best print looked to be around 200. It's not a problem of bed temperature or filament. What are the issues you are having? Adhesion? Gaps in layers? At what bed temperature do you print PLA on the Textured Sheet (I have adhesion problems, even with IPA and washing up liquid). Generally I get the best results between 180 to 220c. Silk pla should really be little to no difference to normal pla, I print all mine at 210 and 50-60 bed temp depending on temp of the room. Pla over 220 runs the risk of heat creap and your retractions or long travel moves without getting rid of molten plastic will clog fast. YMMV depending on the brand and color. Most of the commercial silk fiber was made by Bombyx mori moth silk. Some may have bed adhesion issues with the SILK variants, but increasing first layer bed temp and maybe up the nozzle by 5 to 10 for the first layer should solve that issue. This stuff works like magic. Usually for PLA somewhere between 50-70C should be the sweet spot. To that end, halve your print speed or drop down to 195°c or so. Silk PLA is a blend of PLA and elastomers, usually TPU, which is why it need a higher temperature to get good layer adhesion. I did a temp tower, retraction tower, you name it - and past the first layer it just loses all adhesion and immediately goes sour. Try 245℃, and see what happens. Use a heated bed. 2Lbs)/Spool, Dimensional Accuracy /- 0. I'm starting to think the printer thinks it's at temp when the thermistor isn't actually heating it properly. I print most PLA at around 200C, but 215-220C for silk. Other settings remain the same. You can improve layer adhesion by printing at higher temperatures, but increasing the temperature has a negative effect on the "silkiness," it becomes a lot more dull looking at higher temps. My nosel temperature is 195c and my bed temperature is 70c Going to be trying to print Silk PLA for the first time (first time on my P1S and first time on any 3D printer) this afternoon and was hoping to get some tips and tricks from any veteran Silk printers out there? I use Orcaslicer so will obviously be doing all the calibrations such as temp towers etc. Hello u/Insomnussecrets, . The speed and temperature was as recommended. 00 for Prusament PLA) See full list on 3dprintbeast. This has to be done with a temp tower. 200°C Extruder, 66°C Bed, 0. The issue is that the pieces keep sticking to the extrusion head and not the bed. Stringing at any temperature - I had it at everywhere between 195 (way low for PLA+) and 230 (the max it said to do on the spool) and it stringed constantly. For best results, do some calibration prints (temperature and retraction towers) to see what works best with your printer. Crank the Temps. Where I'm at now is I've chosen the default Silk PLA 1. Yeah it's brand new with a new metal extruder, capricorn tube, calibrated e steps, x axis is level, bed is level z height was perfect for regular pla but not silk, so I'm quite confused lol. I think your temperatures are about right, they're what I use with Sunlu Silk PLA. 05, but this was for pla plus glitter. SKR e3 Mini v1. They said the following: "PLA deformates in temperatures above 55 celsius degrees. I'm using an ender 3. On a BIQU-B2, I have found that Silk PLA wants higher temps than standard PLA+ My usual settings are 200/60/Fans=0 - initial, then 190-195/60/Fans=50-75 Silk PLA wants 210-220. I print a lot of TTYT3D silk and color changing filament. 2mm Layer width . Try leveling the bed and using hair spray. In other words: Silk PLA is good for a vase/looking nice, just don't squeeze the vase and flex it, or something catastrophic will probably happen. 2. The cold plate always needs glue if you want it to last. It doesn't only depend on the material, but also the brand, color other additives, ambient temperature, bed surface, thermistor offset and many other variables. 6mm z hop before travel, 25% retract, then wipe, then the remaining retraction. I have my final layer temps for my silk print 5 degrees cooler and it stops the string whisker that tends to form at the top of silk prints. 3 mm layer height, 0. It could go negative and not touch the bed. Babysitting the printer and manually adjusting flow, temperature and speed yields only temporary success. Whatever additive it is that gives the "silk" property just makes them behave quite differently when it comes to "setting" after extrusion. Don't adjust it as a troubleshooting step once you are sure. 190-220c/25-60c for PLA, Silk PLA 200-220c/50-60c, etc. Printing temperature is already down at 195 °C (from 215 °C) while the bed temperature is about 60 °C degree (less will result in loss of contact of the part during midprint). 99. 225C for hotend is hot too. I was doing 225-230 nozzle and 70 on the bed for the first layer then 215 and 55-60. I run 205/55c on my snapmaker with reg PLA. Silk PLA Ender 3 Printed in Siver Silk PLA. Somewhere around the 4 hour mark is when the failure happened. 75 mm) Silk PLA. You need to dial in the temperature cleanly independent of the other issues. You can use a regular brass nozzle. I print my silk PLA on my Ender 3 with Microswiss all metal hotend at 200°C - first layer 210. bed at 60. 5mm with PLA. 5mm retraction at 70mm/s, 0. Settings as follows: Layer height . Is… The correct temperature is whatever works for you. I haven't used that exact silk pla but others that I have used have given me issues in the past. The same is true for any filament, but doubly so for filament that is exhibiting printing difficulties. Other settings are usually the same as normal PLA - bed temperature, retractions, etc. You might need to adjust retraction settings slightly if there's an increased tendency to oozing due to the raised temperature, but I usually don't. Silk PLA's print better for me than normal PLA. 15 mm layer height with Ttyt 3D Silk PLA 3D Filament Printing Temperature: 205°C-235°C Print Temp: 220°C Heat Bed: 60°C Color: Silk Blue comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Pla lower than 205 won't bond as well but will have crisp overhangs. I wanted to get this stuff right the first time, so I do a temp tower and retract tower to make some new settings for this new type of Silk filaments (usually) contain mica, which can build up in the nozzle and sometimes scratch up brass. Name: ANYCUBIC Silk PLA Filament 1. When I set bed temp to 60C on an Ender 3 Pro (with stock bed heater/thermistor, glass bed, and foam/foil insulation layer) the center of the bed is 55C and the edges are much lower The imgur album linked, shows some pics of the results of a temp tower (i downloaded the gcode from here)with some X3D silk PLA, printed with the same settings we had success with using Prusament and a generic PLA. I printed this at . My Silk PLA (I use Sunlu and eSUN) preset is a copy of Generic PLA with following changes: nozzle temp reduced by 5C (to 215C) - this will vary per filament, do your own testing Feb 17, 2024 · Nozzle temperature for all layers: 250°C (compared to 215°C for Prusament PLA) Volumetric speed: 8 (compared to recommended 15 for Prusament PLA) Extrusion multiplier: 0. Silk filaments like to be printed slow - you get most of the glossy effect if you REALLY slow it down. 225c is only reserved for faster printing of a solid part so I don't have issues Hatchbox pla works well with these temps. I had no other issues with PLA and ABS from other vendors, so I'm pretty sure my Bowden tube is in good shape. The gear still moves and eats up the filament in one spot. 215 for a more gloss finish but I have to slow down (30mm/s, 1,000mm/s²), else I get serious corner curling. Just started a new roll of gold silk pla from eryone, bed adhesion has been dicey and layer adhesion is nil. I’ve only printed with one silk PLA brand: MIKA3D silk. The shine will fade if you run too hot so watch your print speeds as well. Once you find a good temp stick with it. The only ways I've been able to stop it are to slow down significantly (so it stays nearer the fan duct/s longer) or to lower the temperature significantly, depending on whether I want a more gloss or satin finish to it. It could come from a moth or spider. The temp ranges recommended by the manufacturer were 200-220 for the head and 50-60 for the bed. Silk PLA likes to do that in my experience. Sunlu Silk PLA sticks to the engineering plate no problem without glue. check your leveling (most likely the nozzle is to close to the build plate). I assume the problem is bed adhesion, so I've been working on that. Usually silk filament needs higher temperatures, 10C - 15C higher than normal PLA - both to get the shiny silk effect and any reasonable layer adhesion. You will want to print it a bit slower than regular PLA and perhaps a bit hotter (5 or 10 degrees). It's not brittle before printing. check your roll. Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed Nozzle Retraction Settings Additional settings or relevant information is always encouraged. Id say 210 hot end and 60 bed is fine. The print quality looks good, just one piece loses grip with the bed and causes all hell to break loose. 75mm, Silver Silk 3D Printer PLA Filament, 1kg(2. 48mm initial . It printed great. Sep 2, 2022 · Recommended bed temperature for PLA is about 60°C, however it's perfectly printable at room temperature (~22°C). PETG, which needs about 80°C for bed, will again print fine at room temperature. These settings work with Technology Outlet and Kehuashina (that's the only brands I've worked with so far). I have never had any adhesion or stringing issues at all with TTYT3D filament. Filament: super-filament. Nothing at all would stick to the bed. Filament: SUNLU 3D Printer Filament (1. For multi-color I raise it by 5 degrees. The hatchbox woodfill looks really good at 180-185 but my amazon basics black pla looks better at 205-210. Currently I am trying to print this slug with some Rose Red & Blue Silk PLA. 0 mm/s I'm having a heck of a time printing with my new Mika3D Silk PLA. My printer stops extruding every time. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. And 65°C on the bed. 195 for a silk-like finish at full speed (60mm/s, 1,000mm/s²). If you want ultra fine detail, I would slow it down a little, the same as you would with standard PLA. " So 55 should be the sweet spot. Other settings are pretty much the same as for ordinary PLA. other brands cooler I had to turn the bed temperature up slightly. I personally think 35c is too low, but it should work for most smaller prints. 6 Fakespot Reviews Grade: A Adjusted Fakespot Rating: 4. I lowered it and did the paper test, then re-leveled the whole bed. Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. If you're already running at 100% cooling (which I would suspect you are) this means you either need to run it at a lower temperature (which will change it from a gloss to more of a satin) or run a lot slower. The recommended bed temperature for PLA Silk is 60-70 °C. I've tried numerous setting adjustments to no avail. From the looks of it its your z offset being too far from the plate. The PLA print always loosens after approx. This exact PLA (Eryone silk gold) sticked amazingly well on my ender3 V2 glass bed at 50°C, way better than my usual PLA. 75 profile in Creality Print and the following other adjustments: Layer height: 0. I would suspect moisture, but it's been an issue straight out of the box. mori moth silk fiber is the most famous silk for high strength properties. Couldn't figure out why I was having extruder clunk all of the sudden and it was the filament temp too low. I had this exact problem with Sunlu PLA+ and now have 60 degrees bed temperature, and currently have no problems with adhesion. I am surprised to hear that it is giving you difficulty. The solution that seemed to work the best was a combination of everything. I usually print at 225 and Bed 60 and at default speed 50mm/s with . Use a bed adhesive. Reply reply I'm currently using Inland Silk PLA that I just opened and I keep on getting horrible stringing in the central part and on the tail but blobs on the normal sections. What I would be worried about it annealing it. Extruder e-steps calibrated as well. Printer: Ender 3 Pro with glass bed, stock cooling setup. It contains TPU to give it the silk sheen, which needs significantly higher temperatures. 30min at 65°C bed temperature. So far I've tried temperatures from 190-230, auto-levelling, adjusting the Z-offset, and adjusting the Retraction Towers, Temperature Towers, and Marlin K Factor testing seem to end on these settings, but I can't help but feel like I've missed something here. 9mm Retraction speed 50. Maybe push the temperature higher. Someone designed spacers to open up the top without removing the glass. Print a bed level test that hits all 4 corners and post that. I use silk PLA as an example for something that looks nice but layer adhesion is ass. 2. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Higher temps are usually needed to get the plastic to flow a bit smoother and keep the mica pigment from collecting in the nozzle. 8 mm/s normal Extruder temp is 215°, bed is 60° Fan setting on 50% and print speed 75% This is inland brand silk pla, I’m a little confused cause the white overture silk pla came out much better. 215+ looked pretty bad. I got a perfect print! Thank you! I also went back to 205°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. After the bed leveling is done, you go to the settings in the printer and there is a speed icon that says 100%, you just hit that and set it to Silent (which is 50%). Pretty well left all other settings default, including print speed. 6 Analysis Performed at: 11-29-2022 I print Eryone Silk at 220C-225C. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Nozzle and Bed Temperature Print Speed Filament: silk PLA (esun) Nozzle temp: 190C Bed temp: 60c Silk PLA is kind of a mixed bag for me, regardless of supplier. I've recently printed some Silk PLA for my X1C (not P1P), but BambuLab usually recommends to run it in Silent mode. Before this, I've only ever printed PLA with my Ender3v2. Do you use a auto leveling system and if so which one. /r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices. 4mm retraction distance, 45mm/sec retraction speed. I generally print it at about 215 for Christmas baubles but when I printed a headphone hook with it, I had to use 230C for strength. 57°C bed temp is fine, if you still have trouble you can go up to 70°C In general, silk PLAs have poorer layer adhesion than normal PLA varieties, and need considerably higher temperatures. Annealing. I am currently printing at 210 degrees with… Silk filament always has poor layer adhesion compared to normal PLA. 2, BLTouch Filament: TTYT3D Rainbow Silk PLA Print settings: First layer 22… My first and fastest attempt would be to set the heating bed temperature to 60-65 degrees. Or check it out in the app stores I'm printing with silk pla bed temperature 60 nozzle temperature 220 I tried Elmer’s glue but didn’t get great results. 50c-60c is fine for pla on any of the build plates. This is when I found out that the prints look better (and showed less stringing and blobs) at temperatures lower than the recommended 205-225. I am trying to print in silk pla but the print come out with much worse quality than when I print with normal pla. The extruder was grinding at 195°C because the PLA wasn't melting. I use Inland (MicroCenter) filament with much success. The main difference is that silk isn't as strong as standard pla, if it's clogging I'd try raising the temperature and not the speed, there's a fine balance between speed and temperature, and generally the faster the speed the more temperature needed to Overture literally puts the temp suggestions on the side of the roll. As a note, the P1P has 65 degrees in its default settings and X1C and P1S 55 degrees for Generic PLA. This feature specifically does magic with silk filament for me. com Dec 13, 2023 · The tl;dr; is that silk filaments should be printed at a lower speed with a higher temperature. 05 mm Company: Visit the ANYCUBIC Store Amazon Product Rating: 4. So just mess around with it a bit and see what works best. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. I use this temp/bridging tower for testing: Here are some tips to get PLA Silk to stick to the bed: Use a clean and level bed. First layer adhesion has been easy peasy for me due to maintaining the build surface + always setting bed temp to 60 for PLA stuff and making sure my offsets are good and the bed mesh is calibrated so leveling isn't an issue. 210 is probably a good starting point, then you can go up/down by 5 degrees at a time until you hone in the best temperature. 7 Silk fiber Silk fiber is a natural protein fiber. 2 layer height setting with the silk PLA material and used Lightning infill because I didn’t want that many layers of color and to save time. The higher temperatures can normally get you a stronger bond but you sacrifice surface quality. Also silk prints best after spending some time in a temperature controlled food dehydrator. 25 subsequent) and then changed the extrusion to . Tricolor PLA like silk tends to be very sticky and messy. I'm using the same settings as I used with the sample filament that came with the printer, but the filament isn't sticking to the bed. Some filaments you want glue to help stick, and some to protect the bed. The actual bed temperature will be lower than the slicer settings because the bed thermistor is under the bed and there is heat loss as it goes through the layers. I find that it is softer and never have any issues. The melting temp for this PLA was listed as 190°C to 220°C. I tried dialing in some more settings as suggested by other Reddit users: flow rate, retraction, extruder temperature, bed leveling and the best result I got from it (image 3) had even worse stringing than both of the previous ones, even though print quality was pretty good (can't see from the pictures, but now the whole ship's deck has pla should stick without any help. I wanted to try out Silk PLA, and found a nice moon shade lamp model on printables. I did not think about the minimum layer height, I printed it using the normal . It is much less strong and has poorer layer adhesion than regular PLA or PLA+, which I print at 200C. Anything above that temperatures discolors the print and the silky shine is lost. Also, I used the smooth side of the glass, not the textured one, I got better results. I'm trying to print Overture Purple Silk PLA, and I've done the retraction tower and the temperature towers to calibrate, I haven't noticed a big difference in the retraction towers performance so I just set the retraction to 1 mm/s and temp to 215 but I'm still getting burnt globs sticking to the hotend or destroying the print. Pretty much zero stringing. 28 and the. You're getting close to the glass transition temperature 65C and no dehydrator is 100% stable at the temperature you set it to and since its in there a long time it could anneal and change the dimensions of the filament making it not consistently 1. I picked up a roll of Elegoo silk gold pla and it's oozing out of the nozzle when it gets up to temp (70 degrees) and I'm getting zits on the print. Attempting to print a model with Inland's Silk PLA (which they claimed worked well with the K1 since they had a special feature at Micro Center). Those edges are not directly connected to the bed, since the base of the part spreads out further during the print, due to the geometry of the snail. CC3D Silk PLA (Silver) (Dried in SUNLU filament drying box ahead of time, and while printing) 230 C Hot End 50 C Glass Bed Direct Drive Ender 3 Satsana Hot End with stock cooling To answer your original question, silk PLA is not abrasive. Check your Z offset / how close to the bed the nozzle is. I've tried hot water and soap, isopropyl alcohol, both sides of glass bed, re-leveling the bed multiple times, hairspray, tape sticky side up, tape sticky side down, calibrating z offset, changing the e-steps, and nothing. Found it on Amazon in a 3 pack of half a kilo each gold, silver, and copper or $39. A heated bed for PLA is 60C you won't ruin PLA at that temp. I wipe the pei sheet with alcohol before a silk print, all my temps are set in the slicer but I start at 70C on the bed and allow at least 20 minutes preheat time before starting the print, reduce speed to 35-40 for initial layer, then 45-50 speed with bed temp down to 55-60 for subsequent layers. I print ordinary PLA at around 200C, but silk at between 215C and 225C. 210 on the hotend, 50mm/s, newish prusia mini that otherwise hasn't had any issues. PLA+ on the other hand from my experience kind of fuses to itself and is more structurally sound. The brand of Silk PLA is from Inland which I bought from Microcenter. This mode is not in slicer, but in the print settings. I've yet to get a successful print out of this stuff. Tried drying it, tried as high as 235 nozzle, tons of retraction, new nozzle, doesn’t matter, still can’t make a good print without eventually clogging. I tried the middle of those (210/55), and when that didn't work I tried the high end (220/60). I’ve tried printing this dragon nine times. I raise the nozzle temperature by 10 degrees compared to the standard PLA profile. In my experience, all silk PLAs are more brittle and have very poor layer adhesion. IMO you should not go above 60 for PLA, the only reason to do it would be compensating for inaccurate temperature readings. Some quick specs: Printer - Sovol SV06 Filament brand - Mika3D Temperature - 230 (temp tower result) Bed temp - 60 (adhesion is perfect) Every filament will be different and the environment could affect the correct numbers here a bit, but according to the website, it looks like this filament has a recommended printing temperature of 200-230. The printer is calibrated in X, Y and Z. I have never tried silk PLA, but I read somewhere that the PLA is coated with a PET (or PETG) sleeve, and requires higher printing temperatures because of this. It is a gold silk PLA. Tried doing it at 60, almost welds the PLA to the print bed, so it works but maybe 55 makes it easier to pull off. A heated bed will help the filament to melt and adhere to the bed. Im using some Elegoo PLA right now and after a few failures this is what im printing at: Initial bed temp - 60° Printing bed temp - 55° Initial print temp - 195° Print temp - 190° I also make sure cooling fan is off until like layer 5 and initial print speed is 30/mm. You can see the end result, that is the layers split really easily - it took barely any force to separate the layers by hand - with Hello u/Viznar!Be sure to check the following. Posted by u/J3d1kn1ght1997 - 5 votes and 14 comments Depends on the type and part normally. I’ve had my X1C for about a week and with each new filament I try I run the 2 calibrations (flow rate and flow dynamics) in Bambu Studio. I pretty sure Silk filaments are more prone to stringing but I have the same results with fresh, regular PLA. Lowering fixes the oozing obviously, but I was just wondering if this was an Elegoo thing or if it's common with silk. 0 mm/s or less. The problem with heating up the bed more is that the enclosure will be hotter and it will be trying to cool the hotend with hot air which is not great for PLA since it’s glass transition temp is so low. . 5 mm/s initial, 0. Posted by u/Laynester2003 - 3 votes and 6 comments Got some JAYO Silk PLA, and it is super stringy and seems brittle after printing. 2 Posted by u/PoorFrenchman - 1 vote and no comments So far I'm using the included PLA with: 200-205 C I put back temperature to 210 C, and retraction distance to 2. The closest I’ve gotten was about 75%. 15mm layer height. Anyway usually there is an option to adjust the final layer temperature. Disable cooling on first layer and make sure to use at least 205°C to preven clogging. A dual-5015 duct could probably be used to do higher temps with more speed due to the increased cooling. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns. First two prints failed when the model broke mid print. I use PrusaSlicer with 3. Small prints can have issues on corners if you’re overheating them. No. I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. I’m printing at nozzle 200, bed 70, speed 1. Silk can also be more brittle. I found on mine that it was close enough for pla but i tried silk and the curling caused prints to fail. If you use glue, you can also use the engineering plate with pretty much anything. Hey everyone, I am just curious as to what temperature people are printing their Sunlu PLA Plus with. 205 degrees for 3D Fillies and eSun Silk PLA+. I think Cura has similar settings with different names Recently got Silk PLA (gold) and wanted to print with it. Just had to be VERY aggressive with cooling. A dirty or uneven bed can prevent the filament from sticking properly. Did the esteps and the flow rate and started doing my temperature test using this other g code on thingiverse. Bambu lab says to just remove the glass with high temp pla bed. If necessary, you could add a modifier in the slicer, to cover just a few layers above and below the join to print hotter. Many need higher temps than standard or matte PLA, but the recommendation will vary slightly per manufacturer. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In guide to figure out the perfect temperature for your filament and then a bed level guide to help with that. Sunlu, Inland and Stronghero regular pla works fine at 70. 27mm initial layer, 0. 98 (compared to recommended 1. Ok, in case of PETG, for certain larger object it's prefered that we increase ambient temperature for about 10°C, to prevent warping. Silk PLA tends to need higher temperatures than ordinary PLA or PLA+, and has poorer layer adhesion and overall strength. Share Add a Comment Most of my pla and pla + likes 205-210 but this elegoo pla prints like shit unless it's up at 220c. We print usually with 40 celsius degrees on a heated bed. Start with standard PLA profile and adjust from there. Was using PLA silk for months without issue, switched to the Jayo pla+ silk and haven’t made a good print yet. vwuin narb ftnxe vhq eel lorow kxxvq xgggez jovj xijk